Car won't start troubleshooting - TDIClub Forums. You turn the key to start and you get the lights, etc AND the engine turns over but it does not fire. The basics. This is where all of the engine basics come into play. You need fuel, air and heat and remember that you have electricity controlling fuel, so it may be a problem with the fuel itself, or with the electricity controlling the fuel. Troubleshooting. First thing to check is the Anti Shutter Valve (ASV). This valve shuts off the air into the engine upon shut- down and it can become stuck in the closed position. See post #1. 34 in the following thread for an explaination of Diesel Boogers. Here is a link to a thread dedicated to this and a picture of the valve lever when the valve is open: Another picture of the valve: Once you verify that it is open, try it again and see if it starts. I say this because, it may have opened up from the time you got out of the car to check and when you actually got around there to check. Forums Adhesives Forum Discussing topics related to adhesives within the woodworking industry Architectural Woodworking Forum Discussing quality standards and. With RealLifeCam Login you will be able to hack, cheat and watch Reallifecam cameras. Unique voyeur project. The private life of other people. Live voyeur video 24/7 reallifecam. Welcome to the Virtual Teen Forums. If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post. We all want that “finding myself through travel” experience in college, but going to school abroad seems like an impossible, expensive dream. Goddard Space Flight Center GSFC renews long term contract with Kinesix for support of their satellite testing and command & control. The temporary fix for this is to get it open, but this valve sticking open is a result of gunk building up in your EGR valve. Once you get the car where you can work on it for awhile, you will want to remove the hose going into the valve and look for gunk built up in there. The long- term fix will be to remove the EGR valve and intake manifold and clean everything. This isn't a job that you want to do in a suit and tie. This is their story, but here is my story: I installed another engine in my Beetle and along the way I installed all new vacuum lines. Well, the engine would not start but the ASV was open. I don't recall how I figured it out, but I finally figured out that I had the connector for the ASV solenoid and the CCV heater crossed so that as soon as I turn the key on, the heater turned on, shutting the ASV. I guess it would also be possible for the wires to chafe in the harness putting power to the ASV. I guess it comes down to watching the ASV lever when the car is started and making sure it doesn't move to shut off air. New posts: Hot thread with new posts: No new posts: Hot thread with no new posts: Thread is closed. Instantly find where to watch your favorite movies and TV shows. With WhereToWatch.com, you can discover when your favorite movie or TV show is playing, or if you can. Breaking San Diego news from The San Diego Union-Tribune including, national, business, technology, sports, entertainment, lifestyle and local news. HERE is a link to a post later in this thread about wires to the ASV. It started and ran for a few seconds, then died, just like an immobilizer problem. It turns out there was some wiring issues.> 2. These engines have a motor driven ASV. It has a much more positive return to open, so getting gunked up is not likely, but the motor for the valve could fail and hold it shut. Here is a picture of it in the open position. If the valve is stuck closed, you are three Allen head bolts and one wire connector away from replacing it so skip the dealer. In order to get you running, you should be able to shove that flap open. That. The expensive fix is to remove the cover over the timing belt and be sure that the belt is still there and tight and turns when the engine is cranked. Here is a picture of the cover on a 1. Beetle: It has clips holding it on and you may need/want to move that air intake line out of the way to get the cover out of there. Here is a post detailing how long you should run your belt on your A4. Maybe you just replaced the timing belt and you have an aftermarket flywheel. The flywheel may not be marked properly for TDC. To find TDC, you can remove the #1 glowplug and stick a thin straw or something soft and flexible down the hole to contact the piston. Rotate the engine until the straw is at it's highest point and is just starting to go back down. At this point it would be best to use a stiffer feeler in the hole to be most accurate. Rotate the engine back and forth a little bit to find the highest point for the feeler. The best way to get exact TDC would be to turn the engine so the feeler drops down maybe . Then rotate the engine the other way until the feeler drops down . Then turn the engine so that half way between the two marks on the balancer is lined up with the mark on the block. This will take special tools to accurately measure the piston travel, so it may be best to leave this to more experienced hands. All cars. If all is well so far, it could be one of two things wrong: an electrical problem or a fuel problem. Let's start with fuel problems. There are differences between < 2. Is it really, really cold? Are you running any kind of biodiesel (BD) or Waste Vegetable Oil (WVO)? Regular diesel fuel will start to separate wax crystals when it gets cold enough. Also, if there is water in the fuel, it will freeze at a higher temperature than the fuel and can cause clogging, especially in earlier A4 modle cars. They had a restricted check valve in the fuel pick up and this often clogs. Here is a link to how many folks have taken care of this. Here is a link to an article about cold weather and biodiesel. BD and WVO have a higher cloud point so keep this in mind when choosing fuel and when troubleshooting. On early A4 cars, there was a problem with some of the fuel senders. I just added a thread full of links to a bunch of fuel gelling posts. It is located HERE. But right now, if your fuel is gelled, you need to get it running. Power Service makes an additive called 9. It is in a red bottle and it has instructions for use right on the bottle. Without the 9. 11, you can remove the fuel filter and take it to a warm place, or better yet, get the car into a warm place to raise the temperature of the fuel so that it will get ungelled. If you have just started running biodiesel, how long has it been since you changed your fuel filter? Biodiesel is a very good solvent and it will clean the fuel system which is good, but that stuff goes to the filter and may plug it up. Be sure that your fuel filter is not plugged. That procedure is detailed later.< 2. While the hood is up, you may be able to check the clear, plastic line between the fuel filter and the Fuel Injection Pump (FIP). Beetles don't have this clear line and > 2. There will typically be a small bubble at the top of this line that is maybe an inch or so long. What is not normal is if the fuel line is empty. This means that either the fuel tank is empty, the filter is plugged from contamination or gelled fuel or you have an air leak and the fuel is draining back to tank. If there is any fuel leak on the pump or if the little hoses between the injectors are wet then you have an air leak and the fuel is draining back to tank. So if the clear line is empty, you need to investigate this. You need to lift the filter and check that the plastic knobby thing is still there and that it is dry and tight. Another place to look that is becoming more and more popular is a leaking O- Ring on the injection pump at the joint between the steel part and the aluminum part. Here is a link to a site that offers a better seal and instructions on how to replace it. Once you get your air leak fixed, you will need to bleed the air out of the fuel system. See #9 for bleeding procedures. One of the handiest tools I have is my hand pump Mityvac. With this tool you can remove the line off of the filter that goes to the engine (#2 in the picture of the filter top further down) and pull a vacuum from the tank. Do you get a good stream of fuel at low vacuum (< 5 Inches vacuum)? If yes, that end of your fuel system is good. If no, you can remove the #1 line and try to suck the fuel from the tank through the hose. Do you get good fuel flow now? If yes, your fuel filter is plugged. If no, you have blockage at the tank. Remove the fuel sender and find the problem. If the car sat for a long time, or bad fuel has been used, the suction screen in the tank may be plugged. Diesel fuel, and especially Biodiesel, are prone to a microbiological growth at the fuel to water interface when they sit for an extended amount of time. If this occurs, you need to buy an additive that will kill this stuff and add it to your fuel tank after you have cleaned it out. I have just heard about a way to test for a broken thingie in the injection pump, but I want to look into it a bit more.> 2. These cars have a completely different fuel system so troubleshooting a fuel problem will be very different. The main problem has been outlined in #2 earlier, but there is one more thing to check. Since these cars have a pump in the tank pushing fuel to the engine, all of the lines are under pressure rather than vacuum so you won't have the nasty air in the fuel lines keeping you from starting. To test, on the 2. Here is a picture of the filter end of the hose: On the 2. The one you want to remove is the second one from the bottom in the picture at the engine. Once the hoses are off cycle the key to on and you should get fuel out of the hose for about two or three seconds. This verifies that you have fuel coming to the engine. If you have fuel there, #2 above checks out fine and all of the electrical is good, you should start a new thread and get more in- depth help. If you don't have fuel there, you most likely have a dead fuel pump in the tank. DANG1. 44 has worked out some troubleshooting for the connector on the head of the PD engine. So, there are lots of places on the < 2. On the other hand, if there is a fuel related problem, it's hidden deeper and will be more expensive to fix. Lucky you. That leaves electrical problems.< 2. First you want to verify that there is voltage at the fuel shut- off wire. Here is a picture of it: The computer cuts power to this solenoid after it sits for a certain amount of time without starting. So the best way to test it is with someone else, or to clip the MM onto the terminal and set the display where you can read it as you turn the key to on. Do you have about 1. Yes or no? If no, this wire is fed directly from the ECU and you need to trace the wire back to the ECU to check if you have power coming out of the ECU and that the wire is good. Remember that if you have a broken wire, you may disturb it enough during troubleshooting that it makes contact. So you may find voltage coming out of the ECU and you may find that the wire has continuity, but you keep getting zero volts at the solenoid. At this point, jumper 1.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
Details
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. Archives
August 2017
Categories |